This autumn, Miuccia Prada  whose missives always become key directions  has decreed the return of sombre colours. There is something incredibly feminine and fragile about this new austerity. The clothes are rich with "quiet decoration"  such as Prada's subdued, printed velvet coat, which is faded like old stained glass, and Bottega Veneta's pann dresses, trimmed with tiny brass beads.
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